Since I surf at a public beach, there are many people that wait for waves to come such as I do. Because of this, It is extremely important to be sure what you will be doing, and when you will be surfing, because people might be behind you and if you are confused it may cause a huge accident. In fact, if you don't analyze the shape of the waves and where they are starting to break down, you lose a great opportunity of surfing. Here at "La Isla" there are two types of waves: complete waves (when you surf them, at the beginning they are like a slide so you move down with the strength of the ocean), and waves that are breaking down (this waves already lost the elevation point, they are the bubbly water left, yet they still have a lot of strength). In my case, I prefer the waves that are already broken down, because you have a smaller risk of falling down when trying to stand up, which is important when you are learning.
This week there were several events that showed me how I had been developing and getting better. First of all, I've learned how to read waves. During the first lessons I usually told my teacher to send me in every wave that was approaching; it was a big error. This week I've been able to detect what waves will form better than others, and that is a big advantage for many surfers. Also, while surfing I've been able to stand up really fast and move side to side, change my position in the board, and stay stable while surfing, even if trying to do any tricks. Finally, I've got the chance to surf about 8 waves in one hour and a half which is a lot in my opinion. I was able to do this, because now that I'm confident about myself I'm not scared of surfing bigger waves; so when I see a wave coming I paddle with my arms as fast as I can and as a result I surf the wave
A really fun anecdote about this week was surfing together with one of my friends. Since we were both able to surf by our own, we chose one wave and we both surfed it together It was amazing, because all the way down until the wave ended, we were laughing and playing with the board, trying to do new tricks. More than an anecdote, it was a great experience. |
is the one having the most fun"
Phil Edwards